PENNY MILLER COSMETOLOGY ACADEMY

How do the nails grow? How can I make my nails stronger? Do artificial Nails hurt your natural nails? Can nail polish help my nails grow faster?

These are all valid questions for your nail care expert.

Where do we begin???

First let's start with the anatomy of the Nail. Boring, but needed to understand how the nail grows and how to keep the nail healthy.

The above diagram show the different parts of the nail.

Growth of the nail begins in the Matrix of the nail, this is under the skin below the base of the nail. Nail Growth is greatly dependent on the health and nourishment of the body. If you nourish your body with the right foods, and enough water, and fresh air, your body should be healthy and this will reflect in your hair, skin and nails.

Nails grow at an average rate of 1/8th inch per month. Nails grow more rapidly in younger people, thus as one ages the nail growth slows down. Under normal circumstances, growth of a new nail plate takes about four to six months. The nail bed on which the nail body (plate) rests contains many nerves, as well as blood vessels for continuous nourishment.

As the nail is formed under the skin, in the matrix of the nail, you need to be extra careful when you push back your cuticles, and do not apply so much pressure, which could cause you to "dent" the newly formed nail, which could lead to a distortions in the nail, and possibly cause a furrow in the new nail.

When filing the nail, file from outside to center with a fine grit file. This will shape the nail without shredding or tearing it. Friction can be reduced with the use of an nail oil and the use of a hand lotion will help the massage feel great and moisturize the tissue of the skin as well as the nails.

Cuticle solvent will help break down excess cuticle tissue, where as a cuticle oil will help lubricate the cuticle where it can be pushed back easier. You can decide if your cuticle is excessive or dry and what route you need to take.

How can I make my nails stronger and healthier?

A professional manicure is recommended. When you go to a professional they should do a hand and nail analysis, and then determine what services would benefit you and your nails. In a professional salon, there should be a variety of services to choose from. You can start with a very simple water manicure, which will include basic nail care to give you a jump start to healthier nails. You can do a very basic water manicure at home, but it always feels better when you have it done at a salon.

STEPS to a BASIC WATER MANICURE.

Wash and sanitize hands
Perform visual examination of hands and nails
Remove polish
Analyze skin and nails thoroughly
File and shape nails
Apply cuticle remover or oil
Place hand in finger bowl (bowl of warm, soapy water)
Repeat filing, shaping and cuticle care on opposite hand
Pat first hand dry
Push back cuticles, gently.
Scrub hand and nails
Clean under free edge
Pat hand dry
Repeat cuticle care and cleaning on opposite hand
Apply massage lotion or cream
Perform hand and arm massage
Remove all traces of massage lotion or cream from nails
Apply base coat- let dry at least one minute
Apply first coat of color,- let dry at least one minute
Apply second coat of color, -let dry at least one minute
Apply polish at free edge of nail
Remove any excess polish from the skin
Apply top coat - let dry at least one minute
Apply quick dry product.

Can Artificial Nails Hurt My Natural Nails?

Yes. If not done properly artificial nails can damage natural nails.

There are seven layers to a healthy nail bed. If the technician gets carried away and files through those layers the natural nail bed will be left too thin.

If the technician does not keep their tools clean and sanitized, you, the client are at risk for infection from virus, bacteria or even fungus. It is very important to make sure the salon you frequent practices the highest levels of safety and sanitation.

MMA Alert - Methyl Methacrylate Monomer is outlawed for use in the Salon. It is a poisonous substance that should not be used in acrylic monomers. This substance is still used in some salons, even though it is illegal.

If I have Artificial nails put on How often do I need to go back to the salon.

At least every two weeks. If you are a nail bitter, you may need to go in sooner.

Will Nail Polish help my Natural Nails?

Yes, it can if it is a high quality polish. Some nail polish will have strengtheners and fortifiers in them to help give your natural nails a little more support.

Does Polish make my nails grow faster? No, but it can help protect the nail, by giving it a little extra thickness.

What is the best way to protect my Natural Nails?

Protect your natural nails by treating them like jewels not tools. This means to value them, protect them with the use of rubber gloves, when doing household chores. Keep them clean, and moisturized. File out any rough edges to protect the nails from snags and tears. When you exercise proper care on a regular basis, upkeep is at a minimum.

Hope you find this information interesting and helpful. If you have any questions pertaining to the Services We Offer at the Academy, you can give me a call at 405-238-3426. We are always happy to help you with all of your beauty needs.

See you soon at the Academy!

Fact & Fiction on Nail Care

In today's society with all of the information out there, where do we find the facts about nail care? Old wives tales, medical journals, local library, internet? We want our hair, skin, and nails to look there best and we are constantly looking for the quick fix. sorry ladies & gents there is no magic solution for growing healthy hair & nails, we need to have a balanced diet, watch the toxins that we are exposed to, protect our nails from damage by wearing gloves when doing heavy cleaning, drink plenty of water to keep our body healthy and hydrated.

Here are some common misconceptions pertaining to nail care to watch out for.

10 Nail Myths to Stop Believing

1. Myth. Eating Gelatin will strengthen weak nails. While it is true that nails are made of a protein called keratin and that gelatin too is a protein, there's never been any scientific proof that gelatin does anything to strengthen nails. Overall good nutrition, including a adequate protein, is the way to strong nails.

2. Myth. Enhancements should be soaked off every so often to "give nails a break". As long as your nail tech is using high-quality products and correctly applying them, there's no reason to remove your enhancements. In fact, this should be avoided, as removing artificial nails can be potentially damaging. Ask your technician how to properly maintain your enhancements between visits, so you don't get any cracks or other signs of service breakdown. If you do decide to remove your enhancements, try a month of regular buffing and applying cuticle oil to add moisture and seal the nail.

3. Myth: Avoid nail products that have chemicals in them. This would be literally impossible to do, because virtually everything you see and touch is a chemical (even purified water). There is no such thing as a chemical-free nail product, we need preservatives to keep products from going rancid. That being said, improperly used chemicals can cause harm, so seek to understand the ingredients in the products your tech is using, but don't avoid them altogether.

4. Myth: Enhancements ruin natural nails. Today's nail products are dramatically advanced and don't require your nail tech to damage your natural nails. If you experience pain, discomfort, or thinned or damaged nails, it's most likely due to nail tech mis-step. Look at your natural nails after your tech files them, they should NOT look noticeably thinner. Also, don't pick, chew, bite or mistreat your enhancements, they should be used as jewels not tools.

5. Myth. Store nail polish in the fridge to make it last longer. If you constantly remove the polish from the fridge, use it, and put it back, the shelf life will be the same as not refrigerated, however, if you seldom use your polish you can store it in the fridge to add to the shelf life, but please make sure you let the polish return to room temperature before you use it, or water condensation will affect its quality. The BEST WAY TO INCREASE THE SHELF LIFE OF POLISH IS TO make sure it is resealed properly after use and to prevent the solvents from evaporating - do not add polish remover to polish it will ruin the product completely, and turn a high end polish into a useless polish.

6. Myth. That green stuff on some people's nails is mold. Mold is not a normal nail pathogen. It rarely appears on nails, but it will appear brown or black, not green. The vast majority of nail infections are actually caused by bacteria, including pseudomonas, which show up as green discoloration of the nail. It's illegal for your nail tech to make a diagnosis, he or she is not a doctor, as the nail tech should refer you to to a doctor for medical treatment.

7. Myth. Plunging wet nails into ice water will make them dry faster. Your nail tech does not do this in the salon, because it does not work! To get the polish to dry requires the evaporation of solvents. This is why the tech will put you in front of a warm fan or light.

8. Myth. Never file back and forth on the natural nail. Filing back and forth in its self won't harm the nail plate, however, when using too much pressure, friction and the improper file grit, anything below 180 will cause excessive damage and peeling of the nail fiber. If nails are brittle I suggest an application of a nail oil prior to filing, this will help to lubricate the nail and help with splits and peeling.

9. Myth. Cutting cuticles is good for nail health. What you're calling "cuticle" is actually the eponychium, cuticle is the dead skin that's on the nail plate, whereas the eponychium is living skin. Cutting the eponychium isn't recommended, and is actually illegal in some states, because too often the living skin that protects the matrix is cut and infections occur. Plus, over time cutting eponychium can lead to thickened scar-like tissue. Instead, soak your nails in a warm water solution for 10 minutes and push back with something soft like a towel, or use a liquid cuticle remover to dissolve the dead skin on top of the nail.

10. Myth. I should bring my own implements to a salon to keep myself from contracting an infection. Let's face it, the environment in your purse, (where you're probably storing your nail implements) is much less sanitary than the environment of the nails salon that complies with Oklahoma State Board of Cosmetology rules and regulations. Ask your nail tech or cosmetologist questions about her sanitation practices. If you feel uncomfortable about the salon's cleanliness, then leave without getting a service. Remember it's your health at risk. For more information about sanitation in the salon, see our article Safety and Sanitation i n the Salon.

I hope you find this information useful, and your next visit to the salon enjoyable.